All about the DMZ

Introduction Composition of the DMZ on the Korean peninsula 4 1 History of the DMZ How did the DMZ become the boundary between North and South Korea? 8 Let’s look at the history of conflicts and confrontation over the DMZ 9 What efforts have been made to use the DMZ for peaceful purposes? 10 Let’s look at the new value of the DMZ and its changed status 11 2 Natural Environment of the DMZ The DMZ has turned into a repository of biodiversity from the ashes of the war 12 The DMZ has turned into the ecological axis from east to west on the Korean peninsula 12 The DMZ is preserving the geological history of the Korean peninsula 14 contents

3 Human environment of the DMZ Who are living in the area surrounding the DMZ? 16 Villages on the CCL are disappearing 16 Newly born villages in the CCZ 17 4 Present DMZ Let’s check the value of the DMZ 20 Efforts are being made to enhance the understanding of the DMZ 22 5 Attractions around the DMZ 26

4Composition of the DMZ on the Korean peninsula The DMZ district includes the Demilitarized Zone according to the Armistice Agreement, the Civilian Control Line according to the Military Base and Military Facility Protection Act, and the border area according to the Special Act on Support for Border Area. It is 103km long (41.5% of the total 248km. Gangwon-do accounts for 145km) and 153km2 wide (33.8% of 453km2 in the south. Gangwon-do accounts for 300km2). DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) The DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) refers to a specific area that belongs to a country’s territory but the government cannot station troops and military facilities according to international laws. The DMZ on the Korean peninsula was established when the Korean War, which took place on June 25, 1950, was suspended as a result of the Armistice Agreement on July 27, 1953. In other words, the DMZ was created when the Korean War was not stopped but suspended, and North and South Korea agreed to withdraw each army by 2km to the north and south, respectively, with the MDL (Military Demarcation Line) as the center. It is 248km long indicated by 1,292 signs from Jeongdong- Introduction

5ri (Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do) at the mouth of Imjingang River, to Myeongho-ri, (Goseong-gun, Gangwon-do) in the east sea. The DMZ, one of institutions under international laws, consists of four elements: demilitarization, existence of a fixed buffer zone, separation of military power or isolated placement, and establishment of an observation agency. Ironically, the DMZ and the surrounding area on the Korean peninsula are the most heavily armed in the world with North and South Korea sharply confronting each other. Civilian Control Line The CCL (Civilian Control Line) refers to the border line established at for approximately 10km outside of the MDL (Military Demarcation Line). The 10km-long area called the Civilian Control Zone between the CCL and the MDL is a restricted area for civilians. Originally it was set as a boundary line to prevent civilians’ agricultural activities. However, because national armed forces changed its mission to defense of the ceasefire line, those who are authorized can access and reside in the area to farm. But access by civilians in general is still controlled by the military checkpoint. The distinct line has not been set up yet. Border Area The Border Area refers to the contact area and the nearby area that have suffered disadvantages for regional development and private properties for national security since the division of the Korean peninsula. Established by the Special Act on Support for Border Area, it includes cities, counties, and the group settlement area within the DMZ decided by the distance from the CCL and geological conditions, among cities and counties adjacent to the DMZ or the NLL and the area south of the CCL. For administrative purposes, it consists of 15 cities and counties: Ganghwa-gun, Ongjin-gun (Incheon Metropolitan City), Goyang-si, Gimpo-si, Dongducheon-si, Yangjoo-si, Paju-si, Pocheon-si,

6Yeoncheon-gun (Gyeonggi-do), and Chuncheon-si, Goseong-gun, Yanggu- gun, Inje-gun, Cheorwon-gun, Hwacheon-gun (Gangwon-do). Hangang River Estuary In addition to the overland DMZ, the area from the mouth of Imjingang River to Maldo (Ganghwado) is Hangang River Estuary Neutral Zone. It is designated as the special area for common use by North and South Korea. DMZ Hangang River Estuary* DMZ NLL MDL SLL CCZ Border Area (15 cities and counties) CCL

7 NLL (Northern Limit Line) On August 30, 1953, United Nations Command designated the NLL, a military boundary line, on the East Sea and the West Sea, to limit patrol activities of the Navy and the Air Force of South Korea. It is a de facto sea border: on the East Sea the Military Demarcation Line on the ground was extended; on the West Sea the middle line was designated between North Korea and five islands on the West Sea (Udo, Yeonpyeongd, Socheongdo, Daecheongdo, Baengnyeongdo). CCL SLL NLL MDL *Neutral zone

8How did the DMZ become the boundary between North and South Korea? The World War II ended on August 15, 1945 with Japan’s unconditional surrender. The war was over but the Korean peninsula was faced with a more complicated state of crisis. At the Moscow Conference of Foreign Ministers that took place in December 1945, the US, the UK, and the USSR discussed establishment of the US-USSR Joint Commission and trusteeship of the Korean peninsula for a certain period of time. The Korean people were divided to those who stood for trusteeship and those who against it, and the country was ultimately separated: the government of the Republic of Korea was established in the south on August 15, 1945 and that of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea in the north on September 9, 1948. With strong military power, North Korea started the Korean War on June 25, 1950, in the name of liberation of the south and reunification of the peninsula. Soldiers kept fighting in continuous battles in the war, which was faced with 1 History of the DMZ

9a new phase on June 30, 1951, when General Matthew Bunker Ridgway, Supreme Commander of the United Nations forces proposed a ceasefire talk to the Communist Army. The talk kept being broken down and resumed and finally representatives of the United Nations Command and those of North Korea and China signed the Armistice Agreement on July 27, 1953. As a result, the DMZ was created between North and South Korea—a division, not reunification of the peninsula. Let’s look at the history of conflicts and confrontation over the DMZ In the 1960s, the DMZ got heavily armed with weapons. North Korea established fortified positions at a wide area within the northern DMZ and carried out armed provocation by sending armed guerrillas to the south, for example, the Blue House raid by armed guerrillas on January 21, 1968 (the January 21 Incident). It also perpetrated the Axe Murder Incident on August 18, 1976 in Panmunjeom. Even since then, North Korea didn’t stop provoking the south and even attempted to neutralize the NNSC*, truce supervision agency, by deporting representatives of Czechoslovakia and Poland one by one after 1993. WWII ended with Japan’s surrender Moscow Conference of Foreign Ministers Republic of Korea Democratic People’s Republic of Korea Korean War broke out ⇨ ⇨ ⇨VS.

10 ※The NNSC (Neutral Nations Supervisory Commission) inspects to ensure the Armistice Agreement is implemented. Since the agreement was signed in 1953, the NNSC was established in Panmunjeom, in which members of Switzerland and Sweden were dispatched by the United Nations Command and Czechoslovakia and Poland by North Korea. What efforts have been made to use the DMZ for peaceful purposes? Efforts have been made in various forms to use the DMZ for peaceful purposes regardless of the times, whether it be during the Cold War or the post-Cold War era. Meaningful suggestions have been made till today. Representative suggestions during the Cold War include the first proposal of “Use of the DMZ for Peaceful Purposes” by the Military Armistice Commission

11 on June 12, 1971 and “Construction of Peace City in the DMZ” by President Roh Tae-woo in 1988. In the post-Cold War era, the suggestions started to take the forms of specific efforts and achievement, for example, the signing of the first agreement between the two Korea on the use of the DMZ for peaceful purposes (Inter- Korean Basic Agreement) in 1991; Geumgangsan Tour that started in 1998; connection of Gyeongui Line, Donghe Line, and roads since the inter-Korean summit talk on June 15, 2000; and the first product manufactured in the Gaeseong Industrial Complex in December, 2004. Attempts Achievement 1971 1988 1991 1998 2000 2004 First product from the Gaeseong Industrial Complex Connection of Gyeongui Line, Donghe Line Inter-Korean Basic Agreement First proposal to use the DMZ for peaceful purposes Construction of Peace City in the DMZ Geumgangsan Tour Let’s look at the new value of the DMZ and its changed status The DMZ boasts the natural ecological environment with no contact from human beings for more than half a century. It is a history museum that dreams of reunification of the Korean peninsula. (The mouth of Hangang River west of the DMZ and the surrounding area have been playing a central role on the Korean peninsula for long since the era of Three Kingdoms, Unified Shilla, Goreo, and Joseon.) The natural environment of the DMZ as well as its historical significance has become Korean people’s value that neither side could abandon or deny. That’s why we have to turn the DMZ, in which the past and the present history and the natural environment co-exist, to a unified land in a peaceful manner.

12 The DMZ has turned into a repository of biodiversity from the ashes of the war In the vicinity of the DMZ, various, important natural ecological areas exist including excellent vegetation regions, wetlands, habitats for fare flora, and natural scenic sites as well as 2,930 species of higher plants and vertebrates. This accounts for 30% of all animals and plants that are inhabiting and dispersed on the Korean peninsula, including endangered 82 species, for example, cranes, spoonbills, otters, and goats. In particular, the international community is paying attention to Hangang River Estuary Neutral Zone to protect migratory birds. It was designated as Hangang Estuary Wetland Protected Area in 2006. The DMZ has turned into the ecological axis from east to west on the Korean peninsula The DMZ is a 248km-long ecological axis that links east and west of the Korean peninsula. It is a core ecological axis along with Baekdudaegan, 2 Natural Environment of the DMZ

13 which connects north and south. The east-west ecological axis consists of the following three regions: First, the central east mountainous area. Located at the basin of Bukhangang River from Baekdudaegan to Hanbukjjeongmaek, it includes high mountains and dense forests. The whole area of Hyangnobong Peak maintains ecosystem close to virgin forest. At the top of Daeamsan Mountain is Yongneup Swamp, the only high moor in Korea. Second, the central western inland. It includes Cheorwon Plain, a volcanic region in the basin of Hantangang River. Imjingang River is flowing. Cranes and white-naped cranes stay during the winter. Third, western area. Extensive wetlands and mud flats are developed including Hangang River and Imjingang River estuary. Hangang River estuary is the only natural estuary left in South Korea.

14 In sum, habitats and land cover of the DMZ district are formed in an east-high- west-low type: from mountainous areas in the east to flat areas in the west, including estuaries and mud flats. The DMZ is preserving the geological history of the Korean peninsula Chugaryeong structural valley, which is flowing through the Korean peninsula, Jusangjeolli and red cliff, which are formed along Hantangang and Imjingang SpoonbillZacco temminckii Elk Spotted Seal White-naped crane Siam-ri wetland Chopyeongdo wetland Jangdan Peninsula Eagles’ wintering pond

15 ※References: Future of the DMZ (Eung-rae CHO and others, Hanul Academy), The DMZ talks to me (Eun-jin PARK, Wisdom House) River, show the geological history of the Korean peninsula and boast beautiful scenery, enormous value as tourist attractions. Out of all animals and plans on the Korean peninsula Endangered 82 species Designated as Hangang Estuary Wetland Protected Area in 2006 Eagle-owlAsiatic Black Bear Crane Spoonbill Elk Korean Golden Frog Otter Water spider Chinese Merganser Wildcat Goat Sundew Korean edelweis Nodding lily Salvia chanryönica Gojindong Valley Migratory birds’ habitat, Songjiho Lake Misiryeong Valley Daeamsan Jigyeon Falls Dutayeon Galmok Valley Bingae Yeowool Janggoon Yeowool Jogemot Jangmot wetland Water spider habitat, Eundae-ri Jangjwamot Munsan wetland Seongdong wetland White-naped cranes sanctuary, Hangang Estuary Gongneungcheon Estuary wetland Sannam wetland Janghang wetland Chopyeongdo wetland Bird Sanctuary, Cheondong-ri Jangdan Peninsula Eagles’ wintering pond

16 Who are living in the area surrounding the DMZ? As of 2014, the population of the border area is 90,000 (Incheon Metropolitan City), 2.26 million (Gyeonggi-do), and 0.43 million (Gangwon-do), accounting for 16.9% of 16.42 million of the three cities and provinces combined (3.1% for Incheon Metropolitan City, 18.3% for Gyeonggi-do, 23.0%, and for Gangwon- do). Villages on the CCL are disappearing A total of 113 villages used to be located in the DMZ on the south of the DMZ without being marked on the map. Only 8 are left as of 2015: four in Gyeonggi-do—Daeseong-dong (Village of Freedom), Baegyeon-ri (Tongilchon), Dongpa-ri (Haemaruchon), Hoengsan-ri, and four in Gangwon- do—Igil-ri, Jeongyeon-ri, Yugok-ri (Tongilchon), Mahyeon-ri. 3 Human environment of the DMZ

17 Newly born villages in the CCZ Between 1959 and 1973, in an effort to cope with North Korea’s Seonjeonchon (propaganda village), South Korea built 99 Jarip Anjeongchon (independent stable village), 12 Jaegeonchon (reconstruction village) with strategic characteristics, and two Tongilchon (unification village), model farming villages to supplement shortcomings of Jaegeonchon, in the CCL area. Jarip Anjeongchon was established in the CCZ in response to North Korea, which established Seonjeonchon, a farming village near the DMZ after the Armistice Agreement was signed. The South Korean government implemented extensive migration policies to use land as farmland through Jarip Anjeongchon and earn the propaganda effect towards the north. Jaegeonchon was established for strategic purposes to yield even powerful psychological effect toward the north than Jarip Anjeongchon and increase production of food by cultivating abandoned land. That is why the village was called Jaegeonchon, named after the political slogan widely used at the time. Tongilchon is a strategic model farming village to supplement limitations of Jaegeonchon. In the 1980s, residents in the villages started to complain about the complicated access process and demand regulations on farming facilities be eased, so the government started to move the CCL northward.

18 Daeseong-dong Daeseong-dong is the only village established in the DMZ as the name of “Village of Freedom” on August, 3, 1953. It has been maintained according to the supplementary provision of the Armistice Agreement stating that residents who were living within the DMZ at the time when the Armistice Agreement was signed were allowed to live in the current place. As of July, 1953, when the agreement was signed, 160 persons were living in 60 houses. As of the end of 2014, 207 persons are living in 49 houses. Tongilchon Tongilchon was built in the CCL according to active migration policies. In Village of Freedom, Daeseong-dong

19 ※References: Future of the DMZ (Eung-rae CHO and others, Hanul Academy), The DMZ talks to me (Eun-jin PARK, Wisdom House) April, 1972, 14 retired, non-commissioned officers started living and farming in the village. In May of the same year, according to President Pak Chung Hee’s direction to “establish strategic model farming villages by supplementing shortcomings of Jaegeonchon,” Baegyeon-ri was re-named “Tongilchon with strong anti-communist sentiment” in August, 1973. Haemaruchon In contrast to all villages in the CCL that were established under the anti- communist policies, Haemaruchon was established as a result of the Sunshine Policy of Engagement. In 2001, 52 houses were built in the village under the form of a treble clef Village of Freedom, Daeseong-dong Tongilchon, Baegyeon-ri Haemaruchon, Dongpa-ri Hwangsan-ri Jeongyeon-ri Igil-ri Tongilchon, Yugok-ri Mahyeon-ri 1 2 3 4 6 5 7 8

20 Let’s check the value of the DMZ Since the Armistice Agreement was signed for the Korean War, the DMZ has been holding its position, free from contact of human beings. Such geological features have helped enhance the value of the DMZ in terms of history, security, ecology, and culture. Historical value The downstream Hangang River at the western end of the DMZ, and surrounding areas have been the center of the Korean peninsula’s history from ancient times to modern times. Shilla, which took the control of the area, ultimately unified the three kingdoms including Goguryeo and Baekje. Gaeseong, the capital of Goryeo, which held hegemony of the Korean peninsula, is the city where the Armistice Agreement for the Korean War started and the Gaeseong Industrial Complex, a symbol of inter-Korean exchanges, was established. Seoul, the capital of Joseon Dynasty, has been the central city of the Korean peninsula for more than 600 years. When the inter-Korean relations is improved in a forward-looking manner or the Korean peninsula is reunified, the historical value of the DMZ, located between Seoul 4 Present DMZ

21 and Pyongyang, will change again. Security value For three years, approximately 1.5 million young people from 16 countries participated in the Korean War and many of them were brutally sacrificed. More than 60 years have passed since the Armistice Agreement was signed. Unfortunately, heavily armed soldiers from North and South Korea are still pointing guns at each other from each side of the DMZ. The last frontier of the Cold-War under the high tension, shows all of people who visit the area the tragedy of the war and encourages them to refresh their commitment to preventing the war from taking place again. Ecological value For those years when human beings were not allowed to access, the nature of

22 the DMZ has created an abundant and unique ecology that offers an excellent shelter for various wild animals. A heaven for numerous rare species living in widely dispersed forests, valleys, wetlands, fields of reeds, swam, and mud flat, the DMZ boasts a high ecological value as to be called the repository of the world’s natural ecosystem. Cultural value In 2009, TIME, a US weekly magazine selected the DMZ (Panmunjom) as one of 25 places to visit in Asia in its article, “Step into living cold war history.” Foreign visitors to Korea find the DMZ and Panmunjom very unique attractions that they cannot see in other countries. The DMZ is the place that alerts the generation who has not experienced the war to its danger and encourages them to dream of world peace. For those who purse peace with no war, it is a place of pilgrimage of war as well as the opportunity for tourism and history education. Efforts are being made to enhance the understanding of the DMZ Continues efforts to create spaces and offer events for residents’ leisure and activities Gyeonggi-do has been constructing Pyenghwa-Nuri gil and Cheorwon-gun DMZ Eco Peace Park Trail in connection with Gimpo, Goyang, Paju, and The DMZ is the scene of the on-going Cold War and a cold war dividing North and South Korea. The DMZ and Panmunjeom are the kind of tourist attractions that visitors can find nowhere in the world. The DMZ is the only remaining Cold- War frontier and the buffer zone between the two Koreas. The DMZ is the repository of abundant, unique ecology.

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24 Yencheon-gun, and holding various events, including: Walking Event (since 2010), bicycles tour (since 2012), Peaceful Unification Marathon (2015), and Ultra Trail (new). In addition, a plan is underway to develop Camp GREAVES, the only youth hostel in the CCL, as the concept tourism base by combining culture, art, and security aspects based on geological and historical characteristics. The DMZ Eco Tourism Support Center (to be open in the latter half of 2016) will play the role of the ecology and tourism hub or the base for international exchanges. Efforts to vitalize villages in the border area in the DMZ Efforts have been made to support restaurants in the form of association, B&B, and simple tourism programs that residents are operating on their own. For example, wrapping papers are being provided in the form of talent donation, to “DMZ Jangdankong Chocolate,” made by residents to let the DMZ brand known. An ecology experiencing education program is also run to help realize the importance to preserve environment surrounding the DMZ and understand tradition and culture of the regional community. An ethnography was also issued that covered the story of Tongilchon and Daeseong-dong. As part of efforts to make Tongilchon a brand, a museum was also open. In sum, various policies have been adopted for the development of villages and residents. Cooperative projects with the world Exchange with BfN (German Federal Agency for Nature Conservation) Germany has been making the border area between East and West Germany, including “Iron Curtain” as Grünes Band and maintaining it under excellent conditions. Human beings’ access to the area has been limited for the past 30 years, so it was able to preserve good ecological environment. As a result, it has turned to a place for ecology, history, education, and tourism, since Germany was reunified in 1990. The project Grünes Band started under the leadership of BUND, an environmental NGO, supported by the central

25 government. It completely changed military facilities, including patrol routes and watchtowers, that were used when Germany was divided, for education and tourism attractions. In addition, various tourist products that combined ecotourism, history, and culture tourism were developed contributing to the vitalization of the local economy. A series of tracking and bicycle courses were also developed to grow as the center of ecotourism in Europe. In an effort to use the DMZ in an active manner, Gyeonggi-do and BfN signed a mutual agreement in 2012 and have been carrying out cooperative projects. For example, they held the Ecotourism Conference; jointly participated in the World Conservation Congress, published a joint photo collection; and held a photo exhibition at Pyeongchang and Berlin. Efforts to preserve ecosystem For the area surrounding the DMZ to be designated as Biosphere Reserve (BR) by the UNESCO, Gyeonggi-do has been making efforts so that an increasing number of migratory birds that fly through Russia and Mongolia visit for wintering. The new DMZ Eco Tourism Support Center will do its best to make the DMZ the center of ecology and tourism in the region. Additional programs are being offered to train ecotourism commentators; invite ecotourism experts; offer experience education to the DMZ ecosystem; hold DMZ Eco Culture Class to School; and visit ecological sites during international conferences. Efforts are being made to preserve ecosystem around the DMZ.

26 Imjingak Established right after the announcement of the Joint Communique between the South and the North of Korea in 1972, Imjingak exhibits various artifacts and souvenirs resulting from the Korean War and numerous conflicts between North and South Korea. Imjingak Pyeonghwa-Nuri Another name that symbolizes Imjingak. It offers a wide grass hill to watch various performances or take a rest. Dorasan Station The northernmost station for Gyeongui Line from the south. Located 30m distant from the Southern Limit Line. Visitors can see Dorasan Mountain and barbed wire fences. Dorasan Peace Park Visitors can experience ecology of the DMZ through the Korean peninsula- looking eco-pond and an observatory deck. The exhibition hall in the park displays the history of Dorasan and materials on ecology of the DMZ in three 5 Attractions around the DMZ

27 dimensional images. Panmunjeom The venue where the Armistice Agreement was signed on July 27, 1953. It is still used for an inter-Korean talks. It has become one of the world’s attractions when it was the focal point of news all around the world due to the ceasefire talks. Tongil Dongsan A security education venue that holds the hope of reunification. Located in which Hangang River and Imjingang River are met, one can see Songaksan, Gaeseong on a clear day. It is close to Provence and Heyri Artvalley. Aegibong Peak Allows people to see the North Korean territory in the nearest distance. On holidays or at the end or beginning of the year, displaced persons visit to comfort sorrow for nostalgia. Godaesan Mountain At an altitude of 832 meters, the mountain is situated on the right of Sintan- ri Station (Gyeongwon Line). At the top, one can see Cheorwon Plain and Baekma Highland at a glance. Yeoncheon Soonguijeon Site A shrine established at the skirt of Amisan Mountain along Imjingang River. Four kings including Taejo Wang Geon and 16 loyal subjects were canonized. Yeolsoe Observation Deck Established on April 11, 1998. Visitors can see the North Korean territory at a glance. It exhibits daily supplies and military equipment.

28 Bridge of Freedom Constructed on the back of Mangbaedan on Imjingang River, it is symbolic of “return to freedom” because war prisoners crossed the bridge in 1953 during the Korean War. Steam Locomotive Stopped at Jangdan Station on Gyeongui Line, it was moved to the entrance of Dokkedari (bridge) in the Imjingak Resort. It is the No. 75 Modern Cultural Heritage and preserved according to Paju-si’s “Plans to Preserve and Maintain Modern Cultural Heritage.” The Northernmost Point Located at Sintan-ri Station (Sinseo-myeon, Yeoncheon-gun), a destination of Gyeongwon Line in the south that used to come and go between Seoul and Wonsan before the Korean War broke out. There stands a sign near the station that reads “We want to be back on track.” The 3rd Tunnel One of tunnels that North Korea dug to infiltrate the south. It is the closest to Seoul, 52km, among the four tunnels uncovered so far. Visitors can see it by a DMZ tourist bus at Imjingak. Odu Mountain Unification Observatory A security education place established on Odu Mountain where Hangang River and Imjingang River meet. From the circular observation room, one can see Songaksan, Gaeseong. A shuttle bus commutes for free from the parking lot. Pyenghwa-Nuri-gil The northernmost road that connects the four DMZ border areas: Gimpo, Goyang, Paju, and Yeoncheon. It includes Village An-gil, Non-gil, Jebang-gil,

29 Coastal barbed-wire fence, Hangang River downstream, Imjingang River, and other historical sites. Gyeonggi Peace Center An exhibition hall located at the entrance to Imjingak Pyeonghwa-Nuri Park. It is used for educational purposes to deliver the message of peace and its importance to the international community. Camp GREAVES “DMZ Experience Center” One of the oldest US army facilities where US troops stationed since the Armistice Agreement was signed. By being remodeled, it is the first youth hostel in the DMZ. It is used as a peace security experience facility. Attractions around the DMZ

30 Yeolsoe Observation Deck Godaesan Mountain Panmunjeom 3rd Tunnel Dorasan Station Imjingak Tongil Dongsan Aegibong Peak Pyenghwa-Nuri gil

31 Yeolsoe Observation Deck Yeoncheon Soonguijeon Site Godaesan Mountain Godaebong Peak